Ramblings of The Southern Steeze: June 2011

Ten Sleep Canyon has definitely been a wake up call. Just like I wanted. The style, stone, and movement here is so unique and different that it is totally adding to the amount of engrams that I have acquired in my past two years of climbing. I have found that the technical ability to do the harder routes is something to become comfortable with but I never would have expected to become fatigued on routes like I have. For the past year I have been exclusively climbing on good ol' steep southern sandstone and have built up endurance for just that. When I began, I was exclusively bouldering, a great way to get strong fast none the less but over the past year I have shied away from that, clipping only bolts or gear. This has slowly taken away the necessary power for me to break through the next barrier or the next grade. Thankfully I began training with an old master this past february, who coached me and trained me through power and power endurance workouts yet I still climbed 5 days a week. While this was key to getting stronger, I suffered a severe case of overtraining all because of my selfishness. I came to grips with this the other day when I was discussing resting with my friend Alli, who now climbs full time and has coached other athletes. I found it odd how they were only climbing 4 days a week, but the key was every day was a strong showing. The were receiving ample rest in between hard days, something I never considered. While climbing 24/7 would be great I now know that in my recovery state that I need at the least 3 days off a week when climbing at my limit. While I am by no means an expert, just something to think about. Back to the climbing! So I have accomplished exactly what I have planned on doing out here; climbing at my absolute limit every time I get out. I have been climbing lately with local experts Alli Rainey and Kevin Wilkinson, who have been gracious enough to hang out both climbing and on chill days. By the way, Kevin is the mario cart champion, but not for long. I have also met some of the local development crowd and have even bolted two new lines here, something I have become very motivated about since a spring of re-bolting. As for sending, thats something that is about to be on the verge. I have been getting on so many routes at my limit that I can be satisfied with going back and doing all of them soon. I have however gone back to a few and have been really close on breaking through. Yesterday was my first day of real steep climbing, a change of pace and something which is good to maintain. After a few warmup's I was really motivated to get into the cave and finally tick some lines. I had my sights set on a nice 13a which took a long journey out the roof and putting you about 25 yards from your belayer. After a promising flash attempt, I went at it second go only to be completely shut down by a nagging shoulder and bicep pump, soreness from the "rest" day before of hauling, bolting, jugging, and cleaning. See my rest day problems here? I am really excited to get back out and do that along with a few of the others. I have found my power endurance to be a little lacking, but that is something that is only built with time, but I definitely feel much stronger in these past three weeks than I have ever. I have one hung about every route I have tried and can see with just a little rest and recovery, the route going down. One route I have been really motivated on to go back to is The Hellion, a 13c which is just off vertical and features a 25 foot crux section which is near my power limit. I had doubts the first day on it due to a mono move but found a new way the second day to skip it, but making it a lower percentage move in return. I have tried the route about 7 times over 3 cold days, the last two tries falling at the opening crux move, pulling directly back on and doing it from the lower bolt to the anchors. So syked on this perfect route!! I have also had nagging routes like The Burden of Immortality (13a) which I should have done second go but botched my feet and vowed to come back and do it next go. I came back a few days later and made it through the crux 4 times only to fall right before the resting jug at 3/4th height. I'm ready for you now :) Sending is always rewarding but being able to see progression is so much better! Hopefully more pictures and sends to come!

Wow. Let's just start off that this place is amazing! There is so much stone, bullet stone, everywhere. The style here is completely different from that of the southeast. Two finger pockets are littered on almost every routes and the limestone has a bit of texture, something I was not expecting. Rarely will you find a wall overhanging more than 10 degrees and the altitude has been killer the first week. Regardless, I have been having tons of fun throwing myself on every classic (and not so classic) route Ten Sleep has to offer. For those who are not familiar, Ten sleep canyon is located in the eastern side of the state and is a far stretch from urban high rises and four lane interstates. The canyon is a massive gorge situated about 2000 feet above the small town and runs about ten to fifteen miles. Partners have been lacking in part to the recent snow and cold weather that wyoming has been having lately. After a grueling 26 hour drive across the flat midwest, I arrived in Ten Sleep around 10:30 p.m. The last 50 miles of my drive took me through ranch country via a wide dirt road that wandered in and out of the alpine hills that hide small Wyoming towns. This was definitely a highlight of the drive, a great job of the gps taking me through this by sundown. I woke up early the next morning drove into the canyon and was immediately taken aback by the stunning beauty that was so continuous! I pulled off at the first sight of a climbers car and took off on the trail up to the wall. I met a few locals from devil's tower and climbed with them for a good part of the day, enjoying every bit of the cold weather climbing I could get till I was completely numb from the frigid limestone. Way different from the week before when I was climbing in the early morning to battle the humid southern heat. Nice. The weekend brought cold weather and some exploring, trying to gain an understanding for the area. On sunday night, I met up with Cedar Wright and local boulder strong-kid, Stefan Lavender at camp. They were there for the week, ensued with mini-dog posse. Weather was great this week and we climbed at several of the area's best crags including slavery wall and superratic. Photos to come! After a week of fun climbing, fire chatting, and gus tormenting they headed back to Boulder, just in time for the rain to hit! It rained a good bit yesterday into the night and has left it cloudy and 40's for the next few days. These next few rest days will be well accepted to my sore tendons, and a split tip that won't heal. Rest days in Ten Sleep can be quite interesting, especially if you know where to go. The 2nd street coffee shop has become the internet hotspot of the town, along with the great coffee and friendly service that allows us climbers to sit and chauff for hours on end. There is also an older chert road that runs the other side of the canyon for nine miles of killer uphill mountain biking but also gives the reward of a 20 minute downhill that keeps you on the edge! The camping is also free, by a raging, super cold river, and is within a 5 minute drive of all areas. Score! More updates to come as the summer begins to unfold and the sending begins! Here are a few pics from the drive over, courtesy of the cell phone: