Friday, July 27, 2012

Back to the Ten


     Awww, Wasssup!!!! Whirlwind, that’s the perfect word to describe the last two weeks. I'm not much for words at the moment but I thought I could recap on a few moments and share a few pictures of some events over the past few weeks. After finishing up the massive bolting escapade in the Borderlands and I was able to put several routes together before my parents rolled in last week. It was a welcomed surprise to have them in town for a few days and my mom and dad were both super syked to not only come out to the new crag but also to see some of the amazing country that the Big Horn mountains have to offer. Starting in Salt Lake, they covered over 4,000 miles in their two weeks out here and they definitely had a blast in the 3 days that they got to spend in Ten Sleep. 

Pops on belay!


     











     


     After their stay and a mini-epic, 14-mile search and rescue mission, I was back to the Borderlands for the weekend to finish bolting the remainder of the routes I had there and to climb for a few days before heading back to Ten Sleep. Saturday we were greeted with rain but Sunday I was able to get out for a morning session and do a rad little 13a before heading back into town. For the next 2 days, I was either sleeping or watching shows, wrecked from the weekend and getting ready for a week in the Ten Sleep Canyon proper, which I had only actually climbed in a few days this season. We headed to the Superratic on Wednesday, funny because I thought that I would be spending most of the season at this area but in reality had only spent one hot afternoon in June, warming up and then leaving. After warming up on the super cool Insect (12d), I jumped on the Hellion to finish some business from last year. After ludicrously punting from the top once, I sent! The next day we headed up to the Jungle Gym, a cool little area situated on the opposite side of the canyon and characterized by shorter, steeper routes with crazy moves on water-polished pockets. I was able to flash Put it in the Ting Ting (12d), send Gorilla Tactics (13b), and finish up the day with a link up between the two in the fading light. Time is winding down here and it looks like next week is going to be the last hoorah up at the Borderlands before spending the last week in Ten Sleep hanging and cranking with the fam. Peace!
Best. Show. Period.



Sunday, July 8, 2012

Development, Crazy Woman, 'Merica!!















Crazy Woman, No?

     Things have been fairly busy around here as of late...New Crag, new people, new syke. With the absurd amount of rock here, I've found it super hard to focus on one thing, area, or route. As of recently, the fam has been up at "Borderlands" (In reference to the slightly addictive ps3 game that has occupied us more than climbing in the past month) which is just one more gem in the vast Big Horn range. 
Boarderlands, WHAAAAT!!!!!

This wall features untouched, slightly steep, Ceuse-like streaks, and all-day shade making it a primo spot. We've been able to bolt over 20 new routes among the 4 of us; pretty much giving rise to a new area overnight! My skin has been total crap this trip; not callousing and pretty much shredding and sweating at the first taste of rock. I spent the last 7 of the 8 days out there bolting and cleaning from morning to dusk in hopes of being able to devote the remainder of my trip to climbing these burlesque beauties. With 8 routes down, it looks like I'll have my work cut out for the rest of the summer if I hope to put any of them together to send. These rigs are long, steep, continuous, and for the most part, over my head making it that much more fun to see what will happen in the next month. I'm hoping to head back out tomorrow and get to work trying to piece these rigs together and also to get back up into the mountains into the cooler climate. The 4th was great down in the valley though; super cool to check out the little town of buffalo and chow down on a bison burger and some blueberry pie all while chilling out by the pool, in Southern Steeze style of course! Alli has been able to snap a few photo’s of the area along with some of the awesome nightly happenings around camp and such. Anyways, these routes are sick, we’re syked, time to pull down!

Good 'ol Buffalo: The Busy Bee is a killer 20's style
diner that serves up some of the best bison in town

Level 69 Proj.



Monday, June 25, 2012

Enter Ten Sleep


            Wow, its crazy to believe how fast time has been moving this past year and currently this summer. The past year has been packed full with ups and downs from school to life to climbing. For those who care, here’s an abridged recap of some of the things that have happened since last fall. I started my second year at UAB, moved off of campus and in with homedog, the Big Mac C, Mr. Hamiter. As soon as fall temps began to come in, I headed straight for Kentucky to visit Kevin and Alli and enjoy the first small break of the semester which ended up just being filled with schoolwork and studying both on the drive and at the crag. Regardless, it was great to be out again in new territory and I was able to climb a lot of new things as well as just have a mental break from the busy-ness of home life.
Alli Rainey Photo

     After The Red, it was go time in the south; most of my focus being concentrated on trying to build as much power as possible before returning out west the following summer. Fresh off of the end to a long-term relationship and the semester, I spent most of my time in Chattanooga and surrounding areas and was able to tick some lines not only at one of my favorite crags, but I was also able to visit new-to-me bouldering areas like LRC and others. I was beginning to get deep into my training regimen as well and felt like I was finally breaking through to the next level when, of course, enters illness. I was feeling a bit sick the week before but per usual continued on to not only overdo it but also contract strep and mono at the same time. The first two days were actually ok, filled with doctor visits, sleep, and a few days of class and I thought that maybe it was on its way out. The midweek hit and I instantly knew that this was only the beginning and that I needed to get home as soon as possible if I was going to have any chance at recovering. The following two weeks were spent in Fort Payne, in bed feeling worse every day. I tried to keep up with school-work, but knew that I needed to get back soon if I was going to have any chance at doing well that semester. The following weeks were spent either in bed, classroom, or library doing whatever I could to make up for lost time. I would try and get outside, if only for a short walk or hike and it would fully exhaust any of the energy that I had, but after 3 weeks of recovery I was able to make it out to HP40 for the annual fundraiser that Solid Rock Climbers for Christ has every year and fueled solely by psych of being out again was able to amass 30 problems.  Even though I could barely drag myself up the easiest problems in the field, the group raised tons of money and I was absolutely syked to be out again. Trashed for the next week, I began to re-assess all of my goals for the following year and revamp a training plan that would put me on the best possible tract without jeopardizing my health again. I was able to maintain some power gains that I had made but the problem for the ensuing months was being able to sustain any sort of workout. 3 routes in and I would be completely exhausted but it was more refreshing than anything to just be out and having fun again. An ankle injury had also put me back which ended up as a blessing, making me only focus on my weakness of pulling power in the short sessions I did have. Spring break from school was welcomed and I had finally began to feel like I had somewhat of a base to work with and headed to the Obed, Tennessee with Hamiter and several others from the b-ham crew. The focus of the trip was mostly to get out and climb as much as possible and sort of get back in the game again. I had so much fun on the trip, perfect weather and amazing comradery the whole time. I only had 2 months left till Ten Sleep and I had a ton of ground to make up not only with training but also work and savings. I was able to get out a good bit for the following months and was also able to climb several climbs that had been on the lifetime list from the beginning.
Some Sandrock Lowball Choss
After the semester ended in May, the majority of my time was spent working 10 hour days in Birmingham during the week then enjoying 4 day weekends with close friends and family. Climbing became a secondary focus, sort of a mental break before the summer and I was not only super syked for my trip but also loved every moment of time with friends during this transition time.




Space Camp Homie!!!!!

            ENTER THE TEN STEEEEEZZYYYY!!!!!! 30 hours of driving and I was finally back, Wassssup!
Rich Wheater Photo


The last 3 weeks here have been simply amazing. I’ve already gone through 1 box of bolts and there are still new areas being explored daily. As for climbing, I’ve spent much of my time off the grid at a newly developed area and have been able to put together several 12’s and 13’s in this steep mega-theater over the past few weeks. I’ve also put several days into bolting some new climbs at an area that we found at the end of last year and dubbed it the Wall of Awesome. Yesterday I got to get out and put a bit of work into these mega-routes, 2 of which should go soon. The weather has changed drastically here and this past week temps soared close to 100 degrees in the valley. After baking in the sun for part of the day, we headed over to the Ark and was able to do all of the 5 star routes there before heading back down into the valley. This following week looks like we’ll hopefully be able to get out to the new Crazy Woman area and hopefully get to finish off several projects from last year in the canyon. Today looks toasty but I’m over it, time to send!
Photo by Mr. Williams. To check out the adventures of Milky and his southern swag, visit mikesironcladbeta.blogspot.com/