Goodbye Ten Sleep, its been real

Grand Teton

Wow…. The summer in Wyoming was awesome!!! Great people, good temps, and gorgeous weather truly make this one of the best destinations for summer climbing. I was able to grow so much as a climber in the past two months than I could have imagined and was able to even tick some climbs off of the lifetime list. I did get to climb the Grand Teton on July 17^th, in the best weather possible. I started at 3 a.m. determined to go car to car in 10 hours. I was making great time and was lightly packed with just lunch, shoes, chalk, and water. I made it to lower Garnett Canyon around 5:30 and saw that the last two miles of the trail was a frozen, steep snowfield. I was not planning on this at all, fully outfitted in my gumby Teton apparel of thermal layers and running shoes. 

Garnett Canyon             

I began to make my way up the icy slope, sliding and crawling my way for a few hundred feet until I luckily found where the group in front of me was. They looked at me for a second, laughed a little and asked where I was going. I replied the lower saddle and said it would be great if they could go ahead and I can follow in their boot-pack. We continued on and 3 HOURS later I found myself at the lower saddle, where the fun begins. The weather on top was sick!!! 

Topo of Direct Exum Ridge

After I thought I found the base of the Direct Exum, I slipped on some comfortable climbing shoes and set off. I was a little off route, on a more exposed vertical face but the beauty and rock was amazing. 

Swirls of rock on the Golden Staircase pitch

The rock was surprisingly unique; a mixture of fools gold, quartzite, and granite that made for some really wild colors and cracks. It was very smooth, a little unnerving for me but the dry air made for some great friction. I could see the famed Black Face pitch ahead and after an awkward 5.6 chimney I was at the base. 

Climber on the Black Face

The base consisted of a 5x5 stone platform that once left, exposed you to the valley and about 800 feet of air below. The pitch was only 5.7 finger crack but all of the class III exposure was pretty much concentrated here. I said a quick prayer and set off, focused solely on the movement I made, while passing some fixed pins reminded me that I was still on route. I was now halfway done and the easier sections remained. I felt like I was moving twice as fast now; the route was easier to find and the climbing was less difficult. Strangely, No one else was behind me, nor did I see another group on the other side. I was a little confused on the descent and was counting on following a party down, thinking that it was going to be a busy weekend. I found one party, luckily at the rappels where I caught a ride down and scrambled down the rest of the Owen-Spalding route. I stayed at the lower saddle for a bit, enjoying lunch and the beautiful views that were around. On the descent, I slid down the entire snowfield of Garnett Canyon, aka “The best ride ever.” I passed a lot of guided groups who were splitting their day and planning on summiting the grand the next day; explanation for the slow day. I raced down the trail and was back down to the car in 11 hours and 40 minutes, a bit longer than expected. After another day of biking in Jackson I was back in Ten Sleep and ready for a final push before I had to leave. We had been developing an area at the upper canyon (the muffin’ top) and I had several lines there that I needed to finish cleaning and try and do before the end. Shaina, Andy’s girlfriend, and Andy had both put up some killer lines that I was excited to go see and they were also pushing to send before they left. Shaina ended up sending her’s, Nuttin’ Butt the Muffin (12b) and Andy was super close, falling on the last move of his. I finished cleaning and after warming up on Shaina’s, I had my friend Paul go up to see if all of the holds were clean and to configure some beta I could use. I then got on and flashed it for the first ascent, naming it Pillsbury Dough Hoe (12d). The route follows a nice line of pockets with a few good rests in between to a long 3 move boulder problem, after which is a great rest to the final pull out of a bulge on perfect edges and marble like pinches. I had also bolted a route to the right and at the beginning had not finished it because of the top section being so blank. I had kind of shrugged it off and gave it to Kevin to clean and see if he could see a way through and after a little cleaning, he found a way that went. The moves were pretty taxing to get up to a large rest before the final 15-foot boulder problem that guarded the anchors. After working out the moves and gaining some solid beta I came back after a weekend of rest to try and fire it. A fellow southerner, Paul Smoresly (aka Couscous) was also up for the month and had put some strong effort into the Dough Hoe, being super close to sending the last two days. We went up on Monday, for one final day at the muffin’. I sent the line and in keeping with the muffin top namesake gave it Lardy Party (13a). Paul came antagonizing close again to getting the Hoe and I worked out the moves on the third line I had bolted which involves a v9 crux at the top, routes we’ll both have to come back for. I climbed my final day there in good spirits, hanging out for the final day with some great friends and enjoying the weather before heading home to the hotbox of Alabama. After some long days and a few detours, I made it home Wednesday afternoon, completely exhausted from the summer. I’m looking forward to taking the next two weeks off to fully recover and catch up with friends before hitting it hard again for the fall. Thanks to Alli and Kevin again for not only letting me stay as long as I did but for also being great people and even better friends.

Family photo

Much Needed Rest

                              He Biggum 13d   Photo: Deadpoint Mag

Since the weekend of the fourth, things have been on the up. I enjoy climbing here more and more everyday and I couldn't ask for better friends to be climbing with. I have been doing more developing here than I could have imagined this summer and have been really excited about a new wall (aka the muffin top)  me, kevin, and a few others have been bolting and can't wait to come back to next year to send. It really motivating to also see others getting into and excited on developing and who want to give back to the community. My friend Andy Mann has been up here for a few weeks now and have been not only shooting pics and video of everyone but is also putting in hard work learning and equipping lines, something exciting to see. I have been looking back on this summer a lot and the one thing I am really motivated to do when I get back is train power. I am lucky to be an endurance climber but when I have been faced with a bouldery or power move, I have needed all I have to get through it. Case in point is on The Hellion, a route I thought and should have done about a month ago. I was falling at this dynamic move on the fourth go and thought that when it hits that I'll send. Well it still hasn't hit on link and was starting to take a mental beating on me. On multiple occasions I had fallen at this bottom move, after a good rest, pulled directly back on, did the move, and sent to the top. One day I did this on all six of my attempts, the last two being so upsetting that I did the route without resting at any of the holds to see if I could pump. I had been focusing on it more and more lately and when I get back next week, its going down. Today was a great relief though to my stress as I did an extension to a route (Suck the Nipple 13a) that had not been repeated to the FA's knowledge.  The route was typical Ten Sleep style on small holds, pockets, and a nipple all adding up to a nice line I was syked to do second go. I am also getting a much needed break in the Tetons now as I am waiting for Kelsey and some of her family to show up and spend the next few days with her, something to look forward to. I won't be doing much climbing but we might get out to one of the local crags one day and possible scramble up Halletts peak another. I will be soloing the Direct Exum Route on the Grand (5.7 Class III) on Sunday and am shooting for under 10 hours car to car. This will be one off of the lifetime list and a great time. Definitely will have pictures from that. Time is winding down in Wyoming but I plan to finish out strong!

                                          Driving through Wind River Canyon

                                  Through the Winds on the way to the Tetons

                                            First sight of the Teton range

New development

Today is a day off and I have been thinking a lot about my time spent here in Ten Sleep, WY this past summer. This place is truly amazing and the more I climb here, the more I fall in love with the rock and the syked people that I am surrounded by. The laid-back nature that surrounds the climbing here has made this place really feel like a second home and has also allowed me to push my limits on all climbs. Even though some of these climbs seem far off in the beginning, the more I look and try the closer I become, quickly. A perfect example of this was a route, He Biggum (13d), a route I tried a few days ago. Six months ago I would have never been able to pull on a two finger pocket or even imagine using a mono. This route features only that, a few bad pinches and no feet or intermediates. I never would have even tried this route a few months ago but I stepped out and gave it a shot. I surprisingly found myself able to pull all of the moves and even linking sections, something I was very excited to see. I also never would have imagined to find a local crew of motivated climbers that have not only pushed me but also encouraging me. I went back to the city of gold over the crazy weekend and finished bolting a few lines that I had my eyes on earlier in the month. One addition is a great warm-up on some crack features and finishes on deep pockets and bigger holds. The other of which I really want to go out and try is Curse of Cortez, a 13- I finished equipping and cleaning that takes a slightly overhanging face of the wall. There is more to be had further down canyon also, some of which me and kevin will be checking out today. Peace from the sleep!

Rest, Style, and Syke!

Ten Sleep Canyon has definitely been a wake up call. Just like I wanted. The style, stone, and movement here is so unique and different that it is totally adding to the amount of engrams that I have acquired in my past two years of climbing. I have found that the technical ability to do the harder routes is something to become comfortable with but I never would have expected to become fatigued on routes like I have. For the past year I have been exclusively climbing on good ol' steep southern sandstone and have built up endurance for just that. When I began, I was exclusively bouldering, a great way to get strong fast none the less but over the past year I have shied away from that, clipping only bolts or gear. This has slowly taken away the necessary power for me to break through the next barrier or the next grade. Thankfully I began training with an old master this past february, who coached me and trained me through power and power endurance workouts yet I still climbed 5 days a week. While this was key to getting stronger, I suffered a severe case of overtraining all because of my selfishness. I came to grips with this the other day when I was discussing resting with my friend Alli, who now climbs full time and has coached other athletes. I found it odd how they were only climbing 4 days a week, but the key was every day was a strong showing. The were receiving ample rest in between hard days, something I never considered. While climbing 24/7 would be great I now know that in my recovery state that I need at the least 3 days off a week when climbing at my limit. While I am by no means an expert, just something to think about. Back to the climbing! So I have accomplished exactly what I have planned on doing out here; climbing at my absolute limit every time I get out. I have been climbing lately with local experts Alli Rainey and Kevin Wilkinson, who have been gracious enough to hang out both climbing and on chill days. By the way, Kevin is the mario cart champion, but not for long. I have also met some of the local development crowd and have even bolted two new lines here, something I have become very motivated about since a spring of re-bolting. As for sending, thats something that is about to be on the verge. I have been getting on so many routes at my limit that I can be satisfied with going back and doing all of them soon. I have however gone back to a few and have been really close on breaking through. Yesterday was my first day of real steep climbing, a change of pace and something which is good to maintain. After a few warmup's I was really motivated to get into the cave and finally tick some lines. I had my sights set on a nice 13a which took a long journey out the roof and putting you about 25 yards from your belayer. After a promising flash attempt, I went at it second go only to be completely shut down by a nagging shoulder and bicep pump, soreness from the "rest" day before of hauling, bolting, jugging, and cleaning. See my rest day problems here? I am really excited to get back out and do that along with a few of the others. I have found my power endurance to be a little lacking, but that is something that is only built with time, but I definitely feel much stronger in these past three weeks than I have ever. I have one hung about every route I have tried and can see with just a little rest and recovery, the route going down. One route I have been really motivated on to go back to is The Hellion, a 13c which is just off vertical and features a 25 foot crux section which is near my power limit. I had doubts the first day on it due to a mono move but found a new way the second day to skip it, but making it a lower percentage move in return. I have tried the route about 7 times over 3 cold days, the last two tries falling at the opening crux move, pulling directly back on and doing it from the lower bolt to the anchors. So syked on this perfect route!! I have also had nagging routes like The Burden of Immortality (13a) which I should have done second go but botched my feet and vowed to come back and do it next go. I came back a few days later and made it through the crux 4 times only to fall right before the resting jug at 3/4th height. I'm ready for you now :) Sending is always rewarding but being able to see progression is so much better! Hopefully more pictures and sends to come!

Ten Sleep!!!

Wow. Let's just start off that this place is amazing! There is so much stone, bullet stone, everywhere. The style here is completely different from that of the southeast. Two finger pockets are littered on almost every routes and the limestone has a bit of texture, something I was not expecting. Rarely will you find a wall overhanging more than 10 degrees and the altitude has been killer the first week. Regardless, I have been having tons of fun throwing myself on every classic (and not so classic) route Ten Sleep has to offer. For those who are not familiar, Ten sleep canyon is located in the eastern side of the state and is a far stretch from urban high rises and four lane interstates. The canyon is a massive gorge situated about 2000 feet above the small town and runs about ten to fifteen miles. Partners have been lacking in part to the recent snow and cold weather that wyoming has been having lately. After a grueling 26 hour drive across the flat midwest, I arrived in Ten Sleep around 10:30 p.m. The last 50 miles of my drive took me through ranch country via a wide dirt road that wandered in and out of the alpine hills that hide small Wyoming towns. This was definitely a highlight of the drive, a great job of the gps taking me through this by sundown. I woke up early the next morning drove into the canyon and was immediately taken aback by the stunning beauty that was so continuous! I pulled off at the first sight of a climbers car and took off on the trail up to the wall. I met a few locals from devil's tower and climbed with them for a good part of the day, enjoying every bit of the cold weather climbing I could get till I was completely numb from the frigid limestone. Way different from the week before when I was climbing in the early morning to battle the humid southern heat. Nice. The weekend brought cold weather and some exploring, trying to gain an understanding for the area. On sunday night, I met up with Cedar Wright and local boulder strong-kid, Stefan Lavender at camp. They were there for the week, ensued with mini-dog posse. Weather was great this week and we climbed at several of the area's best crags including slavery wall and superratic. Photos to come! After a week of fun climbing, fire chatting, and gus tormenting they headed back to Boulder, just in time for the rain to hit! It rained a good bit yesterday into the night and has left it cloudy and 40's for the next few days. These next few rest days will be well accepted to my sore tendons, and a split tip that won't heal. Rest days in Ten Sleep can be quite interesting, especially if you know where to go. The 2nd street coffee shop has become the internet hotspot of the town, along with the great coffee and friendly service that allows us climbers to sit and chauff for hours on end. There is also an older chert road that runs the other side of the canyon for nine miles of killer uphill mountain biking but also gives the reward of a 20 minute downhill that keeps you on the edge! The camping is also free, by a raging, super cold river, and is within a 5 minute drive of all areas. Score! More updates to come as the summer begins to unfold and the sending begins! Here are a few pics from the drive over, courtesy of the cell phone:

St. Louie!

uh...Kansas, no wait, Missouri? 

Hills in Nebraska?

 

Shortcut!

Photo fail. Wyoming! 

Sunset and closing in on the last 100 miles 

The Canyon!