Friday, July 15, 2011

Much Needed Rest


                              He Biggum 13d   Photo: Deadpoint Mag

Since the weekend of the fourth, things have been on the up. I enjoy climbing here more and more everyday and I couldn't ask for better friends to be climbing with. I have been doing more developing here than I could have imagined this summer and have been really excited about a new wall (aka the muffin top)  me, kevin, and a few others have been bolting and can't wait to come back to next year to send. It really motivating to also see others getting into and excited on developing and who want to give back to the community. My friend Andy Mann has been up here for a few weeks now and have been not only shooting pics and video of everyone but is also putting in hard work learning and equipping lines, something exciting to see. I have been looking back on this summer a lot and the one thing I am really motivated to do when I get back is train power. I am lucky to be an endurance climber but when I have been faced with a bouldery or power move, I have needed all I have to get through it. Case in point is on The Hellion, a route I thought and should have done about a month ago. I was falling at this dynamic move on the fourth go and thought that when it hits that I'll send. Well it still hasn't hit on link and was starting to take a mental beating on me. On multiple occasions I had fallen at this bottom move, after a good rest, pulled directly back on, did the move, and sent to the top. One day I did this on all six of my attempts, the last two being so upsetting that I did the route without resting at any of the holds to see if I could pump. I had been focusing on it more and more lately and when I get back next week, its going down. Today was a great relief though to my stress as I did an extension to a route (Suck the Nipple 13a) that had not been repeated to the FA's knowledge.  The route was typical Ten Sleep style on small holds, pockets, and a nipple all adding up to a nice line I was syked to do second go. I am also getting a much needed break in the Tetons now as I am waiting for Kelsey and some of her family to show up and spend the next few days with her, something to look forward to. I won't be doing much climbing but we might get out to one of the local crags one day and possible scramble up Halletts peak another. I will be soloing the Direct Exum Route on the Grand (5.7 Class III) on Sunday and am shooting for under 10 hours car to car. This will be one off of the lifetime list and a great time. Definitely will have pictures from that. Time is winding down in Wyoming but I plan to finish out strong!

                                          Driving through Wind River Canyon

                                  Through the Winds on the way to the Tetons

                                            First sight of the Teton range

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